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Imagine a Place where the
brolgas played on the banks of the Boolumbahtee
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Map courtesy of NRMA
John Oxley crossed and named Harringlon and Farquhar Inlets in 1818 during a journey along the beaches from the Hastings River to Port Stephens, but he was not aware that a large river flowed through them to the sea. The Manning River was first sighted by Surveyor Henry Dangar in 1825 and again in 1826 during the exploration of part of the country between the upper Hunter River and Port Stephens on behalf of the Australian Agricultural Company. The river was recorded on his survey map by its Aboriginal name "Boolumbahtee". Later in 1826 the river was named "Mannings River” by Robert Dawson, the first manager of the Australian Agricultural Company in honour of Sir William Manning, the Deputy Governor of the Company
First land was leasehold. Later land was brought at Government Auctions held at either Port Macquarie or Dungog. Following the Convict Colony in NSW, any settlement by freed convicts became a contentious issue. To overcome the perceived stigma of the first fleeters, a Presbyterian Minister in Scotland urged members of his flock to consider settling in Australia to give a more upstanding Presbyterian farming community predominance. To this end assisted passages were given to enable those interested to set up colonies in the new arable land. The gamble taken by these early settlers was followed by many hardships and deprivations, which were endured to make enough to ensure a start in setting up their homesteads.
HardshipsSome of the hardships encountered
were: The mode of transport was restrictive as the river is known to have strong currents particularly on high tides and stormy windy weather. Affluence did not come easily to the early settlers of this island where the daily struggle was to keep alive.
FarmsA typical farmholding could be seen in the following example, (information supplied by Dr. Bill Birrell): The following advertisement of a farm for sale (Manning River News, August 1871) gives an indication of the stock and farm equipment owned by some of the settlers during 1860's and 1870's, but not all farmers were as well established as John MacLean who had taken up land on Oxley Island in 1852.
Early FamiliesMacLean - John, together with his family migrated to Australia from Scotland, arriving, in Sydney 10th May, 1839. Excerpt from the Manning River
Observer "At the Crown Land Sale, held at Dungog on June 16, 1852, Mr John MacLean, 'Drimnin', Clarencetown, purchased for his three sons, Robert, Hector and Archibald MacLean, three blocks of brush-land each containing 109, 68 and 61 acres on Oxley Island, fronting the South Channel, Manning River. These they each named, 'Torwood', "Copabelia" and "Ferndale" respectively. The three MacLean brothers were the first permanent European settlers on Alley Island. In the year 1852, Messrs. Robert and Hector MacLean spent a short period on the Turon and Victorian gold diggings.”
Schmitzer - Migrated from Germany with Grape Vines. Settled first at Raymond Terrace then moved to Oxley Island in 1858 and with his wife started a vineyard. The family continue to operate a farm today. It was a member of the Schmitzer family who built the Court House and Police Station in Taree which are well recognised buildings. This branch of' the family then moved to Grafton to build some of the brick buildings there. Allan - George, Helen and William migrated from Scotland with their second son Alexander being born on the ship Walmer Castle outside Sydney Heads. George worked for a while for the Poulson Family before bringing his wife and two sons to live on Oxley Island. William was a Director of the Manning River Co-op from 1899 till he died in 1907.
ChurchesThe Oxley Island Cemetery dates from 1878 with the first recorded grave being that of a 1 year old child in 1884. The current Interdenominational (Union) Church was built on land which was dedicated for Church Use on 23rd June 1879, being approximately 68 years old, it was built by locals including William Ryan. It is the last remaining Church on Oxley Island The first Catholic Church was built in 1892 half way up Ferry Road going east from Oxley Island Road in the Nature Reserve. This was burnt down when bushfires raged on the hill, the services were held in the present Oxley Island Literary Institute Hall until a block of ground was given to the Catholic Church in 1953 by Mr Frank Evans, to build a Church on the corner of Ferry Road and Oxley Island Road. In 1977-78 the Church was sold and moved to Tinonee where it is now brick veneered and used as a Uniting Church. Church of England - St Barnabas - was built ill 1922 by voluntary labour from (the island, bricks were hand made on the island ill the hollow below the school. Cannon Phillips had a strong influence in design, being a replica of the Grimsby English Church, the tower is slightly smaller due to the foundations. The Cannon and his wife are buried in the cemetery adjacent to the church. It has since been closed and sold and is now used as a residence.
Early Life Depended on the RiverThe houses were built close to the river as the river system was a vital link with the outside world in communication, services and travel. Passenger and cargo travel in earlier times was by steamship between Sydney and Croki. Excerpt from Frank Lee, former pupil Oxley Island School and taken from the yearbook of 1862. A pilot ship regularly tested the river, and ensured dredges from Newcastle maintained a safe depth for the many craft that called at local wharves. Cargo consisted of vegetables, hides, pigs, calves, timber, as well as passengers. Ships of up to 600 tons could be berthed at the old wharf at Lee's where two beacons on the farm marked the channel. William Lee was the North Coast Shipping Company agent. Some of the ships that called at this wharf were: Melinga
600 tons diesel built in Glasgow Other wharves called at were Croki, Ghinni, Cundletown, Taree, Tinonee and Wingham. Small boats went into the shallow places and brought the cargo to points where the larger boats loaded it.
Oxley Island IndustryOxley Island Farmers went to Bega and Kiama by ship to see the successful dairy industry of that region and brought back ideas on cattle and creameries to Oxley Island. The Butter Factory on Mitchell Island opening on 18th February 1893, this helped change the direction of the farming community. The first Cream Boat, the Alert captained by Mr C. W. Nissen, was steam driven, and held a contract to collect milk and cream from the farms along the lower river. Others to follow included the Sunrise a steam launch which required two men to operate, was sold in 1938-39, converted for passenger use on Sydney Harbour and renamed the Sunrise Star. The steam driven boats were all eventually replaced by diesel power. Cream boats also acted as passenger ferries, and when roads were impassable, would collect orders for the various farmers from the general store in Taree. The dairying industry became a
major force on Oxley Island.
The Railway ComesThe railway came to Taree around 1913. Cream factories were built closer to Taree, the focus in transport switched from Croki to Taree. The Croki - Oxley Island - Mitchell Island area was previously the most heavily populated area in the Lower Manning Valley. Boat Building on Oxley Island would have proven to be a vital link with the world, as services such as baker, grocer, stores, butcher, etc. The Layton Family came to manage Street's Timber Mill at Bohnock. In 1884 they purchased land from McLean who had an original grant in 1852 on Oxley Island. When the timber ran out the Layton brothers, William and George, commenced slaughtering and delivering meat to the homesteaders on the neighbouring islands by both boat and cart. With no way of storing fresh meat it was unviable for the early settlers to slaughter their own beasts. After the Layton brothers, the Butcher Boat was taken over by J. J. Northam The Grocery Boat would leave Croki on Monday around 5 am taking four to five days up river to complete his round of the various islands, one such stop being Oxley Island. The Floating Shop or Store Ship carried all the various staple goods required to farm and maintain homesteads, such as tools, gum boots, eggs, calf skins, drapery, sacks of potatoes, onions, sugar, flour, etc. On coming aboard the shop, aromas of the various products would surround and engulf you. Another service that was offered in those times was the baker standing at his oars rowing fresh bread from jetty to jetty up and down the river. Against time and tide he would await the children coming and going to school to give a treat of' a fresh bread roll before continuing this labour intensive journey which sometimes took four days to complete.
Punts and BridgesThree punts operated in this area, one at Pamipoolah, one at Scotts Creek both of which carried two cars per trip, the last at Cundle Plains could carry four cars. However, the opening of the bridge across the Manning River at Bohnock (Neville Weiley Bridge) allowed a larger easier access and common bond to places such as Old Bar, Bohnock, Oxley Island with Taree and was considered to be one of the most important days in the history of Oxley Island. It was one of the first bridges to span the Manning River to commence the elimination of the ferries and punts. Over 1,000 people viewed this official opening on 18th April, 1958, which was attended by Mrs Vera Weiley, widow of the late Councillor Neville Weiley, for whom (the bridge was dedicated in acknowledgment of his unfailing service to the community and his dedication to progress). It is clue to his foresight that Oxley Island is now 20 kms from Taree with good all weather access, with the exception of major flooding. he high section of Weiley's ground was affectionately called Weiley's Park which was used for football matches, school games and shows. In 1930 the first official football team was made up of Eddie Thomas, Charlie Moscatt, Ivan Aldous, Reg Wise and Pat McCarthy. A local newspaper in October 1932 reported the results of the match between Oxley Island and Mitchell Island played on Weiley's Park. Oxley Island did have a grocery shop which was located on the corner of Ferry Road and Oxley Island Road (where the Catholic Church was later located). A Post Office was operated out of the school grounds where the eldest children of the time helped in the manning of the Post Office, after Jack Daniels broke his leg it was taken up by the Cavenaghs. It was one of the smallest buildings, 6 ft by 6 ft, for a Post Office.
The SchoolThe School on Oxley Island was opened in May 1862 with the first teacher being Thomas Lobban. On inspection in June 1862 it was noted that 21 boys and 17 girls were present. The principals and teachers of Oxley Island School have always taken all active roll in the hall committee, many of the school activities, fund raisers, Christmas trees etc. have been held in the hall. The present Principal, John Cook, during his 18 years at the school has worked closely with the hall and its committee, taking up the Treasurer's position for five of those years, along with his many other school and sports activities. Not all Oxley Island children attended this School, some found it easier to ferry across the river rather than traverse the land obstacles.
The CommunityAs a small community the people on this Island have all worked together to get things done, a good example of this was in 1940 when lack of fresh water, (due to the underground supply being in most cases saline and unfit for use with cattle) and the subsequent drying up of wells on the island, had farmers band together, each subscribing 50 pounds to have Council clean out the existing dam. Water was then piped to troughs on the corner of Ferry Road and Oxley Island Road, where farmers were then charged 6 pence per head to water their herd. Maintaining this supply continues to be a community effort. Town water is now available. North and South Drainage Unions were formed early this century to drain properties of excess water, each farm is rated by the amount of land required to be drained, and the Organisations continue to the present day. Bill Greenaway the oldest farmer still working a portion of his farm is 87 years young. He could plough a field at 11 years of age and began farming on his own at 13 years of age. His first cheque was for six pence three farthings. Bill was a successful breeder of Jersey cows, he started his stud in 1944 and went on to winning many prizes at the Sydney Royal Easter Show in 1959, taking out the Most Successful Exhibitor award. The spirit and tenacity of this individual is an example of a roll model for all young person to follow. The real spirit of togetherness encouraged by the Islanders is readily seen by having its various governing bodies band together, having dual roles. A prime example of this would be Dal Northam with the unfailing help of his wife Betty (nee Templeton) who continues to work tirelessly for the community. The Oxley Island School of Arts was built in 1909 at a cost of 168 pounds 10 shillings by Mr E. Milligan. Painting of the woodwork and steps being 4 pound 10 shinings, erection of two tonets cost 8 pounds. The Founding Fathers on 17th May 1909 Messrs. I.T. Minigan in the Chair, G. Wells, R. Weiley,T. Weiley W. N. Lee, G. Murdoch Snr, G. Neal, H. A. Alien, J. Evans Snr, C. Moscat Jas. Needs (School Teacher), proposed the acceptance of the quotes for the above works. The first elected President was Mr John Ryan Esq. A reading room/library incorporated in March 1910 with a Librarian being installed at a later date. Fees for the year to join this committee in 1909 were. 5/- Gentlemen, 2/6 Ladies, 10/- Families. On 2nd August their first noted social event was mentioned in the Minutes. In 1928 changes were made to the Constitution, where the School of Arts was renamed Oxley Island Literary Institute.
Today's IndustriesCroker Oars was formed in 1962 by Howard Croker, in a factory in Ryde, Sydney . Howard together with his family relocated to Oxley Island in 1977 after receiving a decentralisation grant and obtaining industrial land on the Island. Croker Oars initially manufactured quality hand crafted timber oars for still water and surf boat rowers at competition level. These were made from Sitka Spruce and Mountain Ash and were very labour intensive. As time and technology have progressed they hardly make a timber oar, with the exception of sweep oars for surf boats. The bulk of their production is now composite (fibreglass & plastic), having agents in NZ, UK, Sth Africa, Switzerland and Germany. They are the second largest manufacturer of competitive rowing oars in the world with their market growing. Their oars have been used by rowers in every Olympic games since Tokyo in 1964 and employ up to 10 people (full time and casual) from the local area. There is another industry run on this Island by Mark Polson, namely oysters, which are wholesale. Many, others of this community have businesses in other areas such as Wingham and Taree.
written by Gloria Collier and Joan O'Hara 1997This article is reprinted
from Journal #3, February 1998
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